Method of making hosiery



Jan; 31, 1939. 1. L, BEERS ET A1.

METHOD OF MAKING HOSIERY 5 Sheets-Sheet l l Original Filed Jan. 6, 1958 IN VEN TOR. z L,Be7:s and Jraubeger WW Y l ATTORNEY.

MSA?

Original Filed Jan. e, 1938 5 sheets-sheet 2 l INVENTOR. L: .Heers and Isqph BYHams J raa/.ssegyer ATTORNEY.

Jan. 31, 1939. J. L. BEERS ET AL METHOD OF MAKING HOSTERY original Filed Jan. e, 193s 5 sheets-sheet 3 INVENTOR. W5 ana? Yan-S J raasbegyer Patented Jan.. 3l, 1939 UNITED STATES MSM ica

PATENT METHOD F MAKING HOSIERY Original application .lanuary 6, 1938, Serial No. 183,572. Divided and this application May lill, 1938, Serial No. 208,796

9 Claims.

The present invention relates to a method of making hosiery, more particularly to a method of manufacturing stockings of the type commonly known in the art as mesh stockings and having a combined leg and instep portion cut to shape from open work fabric, such as mesh, lace,v or like materialyand welt and foot sections of weft knitted fabric. Specifically, the invention pertains to the method disclosed in our co-pending application, Serial Number 183,572, led January 6, 1938, of which this application is a division.

The invention has for one of its main objects the provision of a method of making the welt section and the foot section and of uniting the same to the corresponding parts of the combined leg and instep portion, whereby to provide an improved connection therebetween.

Another important object of the invention resides in `the provision of an improved method of knitting a full-fashioned fabric foot blank in#- tended to be connected to a cut open work fabric leg blank in such a manner that there is produced between the fabrics a reinforced and finished connection capable of resisting ystrain and stresses to which the stocking is subjected when put to ordinary use, while adapted to impart a smooth finished appearance at the points of the fabric interconnection.

It is still another important object of the invention to provide a method of knitting a stocking part and uniting the same to a stocking leg fabric section, whereby to produce an invisible combined interknitted and stitched or sewed connection therebetween.

The invention further contemplates the provision of a method of knitting' the welt and foot fabrics and connecting them to a combined leg and instep fabric in such a way that the plurality of fabric thicknesses are formed, between which is inserted and imprisoned a substantial amount of the leg fabric, thereby producing a seam having an increased strength and a pleasing, finished appearance.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be in part obvious and in partpointed out v tion based thereupon, set out possible embodiments of the invention. In these drawings: Figure l is an elevation illustrating a finished (Ul. (i6-183) stocking constructed in accordance with the invention. s

Figure 2 is a composite view illustrating the cut leg and instep blank, and th'e welt and foot construction.

Figures 3 to 7 inclusive are diagrammatic representations of the various steps followed in knitting the foot fabric.

Figure 8 is a detail in perspective-illustrating one mode of connecting the leg fabric blank with a part of the foot fabric.

Figure 9 is a section taken on line @-il of Figure 8.

Figures to 15 inclusive are diagrammatic representations of the steps followed in knitting the welt and uniting it to the leg blank.

Having more particular reference to the drawings, wherein like characters of reference will designate corresponding parts throughout, we have shown in Figure l a complete and finished I stocking l consisting of a leg 2, including an instep 3, a foot Il, and a welt 5.

The leg 2 is preferably formed with a leg fabric blank 6 cut, substantially in the shape represented in Figure 2, from a sheet of suitable fabric, preferably mesh, lace, or open work warp knit fabric. It will be noted that the opposite side edges 'l of the blank t from the marginal edge 8 along the line a-a at one end of said blank are cut and fashioned so that the blank will suitably t the shape of a human leg when said edges 1 are sewed together to form the stocking.

It will also be noted that the edges 9 along the line b-b at the lower portion of the blank 6, are cut at substantially right angles with respect to the edges l and to the edges Ill, the latter extending between the points defined by said line b-b and line .c--c which is along the marginal edge l l at the other end of the blank.

Attention is called to the fact that the opposite portions of the leg fabric blank Iadjacent the marginal edges S and l0 are longitudinally slit, as shown at i2, whereby to provide a pair of depending tabs i3 for the purpose to be later specified.

It is, of course, to be understood that the cutting of the blank along the edges il, as shown herein, is specifically intended for the formation of an ordinary high-splice heel, but if it is -desira'ble to form a different type of heel, suchv as a'pointed heel, then the blank may be out so that the edges 9 will be at an angle different from that shown, in order to adapt itself to the formation of the desired type of heel.

The section of the blank from the line b-b.

to the line c--c (the length of which section may vary, depending upon the foot size), constitutes the instep 3, and those portions thereof adjacent the edges 9, Ill, and I I are adapted to be connected to our improved foot 4, the construction of which is more clearly shown in Figure 2.

As represented in said Figure 2, the foot 4 is made from a full-fashioned fabric blank I4 comprising a pair of complementary heel fabrics I5, a pair of complementary sole fabrics I6, and a toe fabric I '1.4

One end of each heel fabric I5 is provided with a double-ply welt-like fabric projection I8 extending from the heel fabric demarking line I9. 'Ihe other end of each heel fabric I5 is provided with a topping course 20 and a topping tab 22. It will, of course, be understood that each heel fabric may be narrowed, as shown at 23, to impart a proper curve shaping to one selvedge edge 24 thereof, the other selvedge edge 25 being substantially straight. In this connection, it is to be noted that the selvedge edges 26 and 2'I of the Welt-like fabric projection I8 extend as a continuation of the selvedge edges 24 and 25 of the heel fabrics. Whereas the two heel fabrics I5 are of identical construction, they are so manufactured that one serves as the right heel and the other as the left heel.

The sole fabrics I5 start at the selvedge edges of the heel fabrics I5, extend therefrom for a length sufficient to correspond to the desired size of the foot being knitted and terminate at the point where the knitting of the toe begins.

Each sole fabric I6 may be narrowed in the usual way in the vicinity of its starting and terminating portions, as represented at 28 and 29, whereby the outer selvedge edges 30 may assume the proper curve shape, the inner selvedge edge 3| remaining substantially straight.

The toe fabric Il has its side portions 32 interknit with the sole fabrics I6 so that the selvedge edges 33 of said toe fabric become a continuation of the outer selvedge edges 30 of the sole fabrics.

Interknit, as at 34, to the intermediate portion of the toe fabric, is a. double-ply welt-like portion 35 extending between the sole fabrics I6 and having a width slightly greater than the distance from the inner selvedge of one of said sole fabrics to the inner selvedge of the remaining sole fabric so that the selvedge edges 36 of said Weltlike portion 35 overlap the selvedge edges 3l of said sole fabrics.

The usual gores 38, topping course 39, and topping tab 4D, may be provided in the toe fabric I'I.

The welt 5 may be of any suitable or desirable construction but, as represented in the drawings, is preferably made from a iiat knitted fabric blank 4I of general rectangular formation with the selvedge edges 42 thereof adapted to become substantially aligned with the selvedge edges of the adjacent portion of the leg fabric blank 6 when connected thereto. The welt fabric blank 4I also is preferably provided with a medial picot course 43 along which said blank is folded, whereby to form the commonly known double4 welt.

In knitting the foot blank, the heel fabrics I5 are rst made on any type of flat knitting machine capable of adapting itself to the work, for instance, on the well known Reading full-fashioned knitting machine with which those skilled in the art are familiar.

The mode of procedure in knitting the heel fabrics will be clearly understood by the showing made in Figures 3 to 7 inclusive.

When starting the heel fabrics, an ordinary Welt bar W is brought into operative relation with the needles N, sinkers S, and knockover bits K to engage, in the usual way, the initial knitted courses and subsequently draw the fabric out of the knitting field as the knitting of said fabric progresses.

A suflicient number of courses are knitted to form the welt-like fabric projection I8 which is folded over, welt fashion, as indicated by the arrow A in AFigure 3, to provide a double thickness of fabric. It will be noted that during the knitting of said projection, the fabric is slightly narrowed, then widened, as shown at 44 and 45 respectively, and a pair of picot courses 46-are knitted in spaced relation so that, upon folding the fabric to form the double thickness, the-narrowed and widened portions 44 and 45 and the picot courses 46 will lay in diametrically opposed relationship. l

With completion of the welt-like fabric projection I8, the knitting is continued, as shown in Figure 4, to nish the heel fabric I5 which is narrowed, as at 23, to impart shaping thereto and terminates with the ordinary topping course 20 and topping tab 22. As hereinbefore stated, the heel fabrics I5 are so knitted that one forms the right heel while the other forms the left heel.

It will be appreciated that the heel fabrics of the character described may be manufactured in stock quantities and at odd times, inasmuch as the heel fabrics need not be utilized immediately but may be stored for future use when foot blanks are required.

When making the foot blank I4, two completed heel fabrics I5, that is, one right and one left heel fabric, are transferred on a knitting section of a commonly known full-fashioned footer knitting machine by engaging the loops at the selvedge edge 25 of said heel fabrics with a certain number of end needles, the heel fabrics being relatively disposed so that the welt-like projections I 8 will be facing each other in a manner more fully represented in Figure 5. The two heel fabrics I5 are so placed on the needles of the footer knitting machine that the distance therebetween will correspond to the Width of the instep.

With the heel fabrics thus transferred on the knitting machine, the latter is operated to simultaneously knit the pair of sole fabrics I6, one sole fabric being knitted onto each heel fabric. In knitting the sole fabrics, we prefer to use one yarn carrier to form each sole fabric, each carrier being separately operated, that is, each carrier being individually connected to aseparate carrier bar operable through the usual well-known yarn feeding mechanism of an ordinary full-fashioned footer to impart an independent reciprocatory movement to the respective carriers for causing the same to lay their yarn over the required number of needles.

Of course, it is to be understood that additional carriers may be brought in, to work in conjunction with each of the main carriers, for instance, when it is desirable to lay a reinforcing thread or to knit a plated fabric and, in that event, the additional carriers are 4adjusted to operate in proper relation with respect to the main carriers, a matter well understood by those skilled in the art.

During the knitting of the sole fabrics I6, the usual narrowing mechanism is caused to function, as is well known in the art, to form the narrowings 28 and 29 for the purpose hereinbefore specified.

When there has been knitted a sufllcient amount of courses to constitute the sole fabrics, that is, when the knitting has been carried out to the point where the knitting of the toe is to begin, the machine is stopped and a small readymade `welt portion 35 is topped on the intermedie ate needles NI so as to span the spacing between the sole fabrics. In order to facilitate the topping operation, the small welt portion is preferably provided with a topping course 48 and topping tab I9 which may beraveled out after serving its purpose. The small welt portion 35 is moreover provided with intermediate picot courses 46' similar to those provided in the welt-like projections of the heel fabricsl5. The various fabrlcs being thus arranged, the knittingis carried out so that the yarn is fed in one continuous stroke over the end and intermediate needles to knit the toe fabric I1 which thus becomes interknitted with said sole fabrics I6 and small welt portion 35, as indicated at 34.

In knitting the toe fabric, the narrowing mechanism of the knitting machine is operated to form the toe gores 38; the knitting machine is further operated to knit the topping course 39 and topping tab 40 onto the toe fabric l1.

Attention is called to the fact that the narrowing marks 29 at the terminating portion of the sole fabrics I6 are preferably located to converge towards the connecting point between said sole fabrics and the small welt portion 35. In this manner, there is formed a simulated diamond point resembling the diamond point in the toc, which imparts a pleasing symmetrical appearance as illustrated in Figures 1, 2, and 7.

The completed foot blank isthen ready to be connected to the leg blank and the steps which we prefer to follow in effecting this connection will now be described.

The welt-like projections I8 of the heel fabrics l5 and the small welt portion 35 of the toe fabric l1 are folded along their respective picot courses 46 and 46 in the manner more clearly shown in Figures 8 and 9, thus forming a re-entrant portion 50 between the walls of which is inserted the corresponding portions of the leg fabric blank,

The layers of fabrics are then sewed through` and through, preferably by means of a triple needle stitching machine, thus forming a rigid seam between the leg and foot at the heel and toe parts, said seams consisting of three lines of stitchings, as represented at 5I. Because of the provision of the picot courses d5 and d5', it will be appreciated that finished edges 52 appear at the seam which, in connection with the lines of stitchings 5l, enhance the general appearance of the stocking.

Moreover, the provision of the picot courses facilitates the folding of the welt-like fabric projection and the small welt portion because the picot courses tend to crimp the fabric along a straight line.

The seaming of the heel and toe fabrics, of course, leaves free the marginal side edges l@ of the instep i, which edges may then be sewed or seamed, according to the usual mode of procedure, to the Acorresponding selvedge edges 2l of the heel welt-like projections la and to the selvedge edges :il of the sole fabrics to form the seam 53 (Figure l), said scam 53 continuing along the selvedge edges 36 of the toe welt-like portion 35, thereby joining the latter to the sole fabrics and Although the Welt blank 4I may be connected to the corresponding portion of the leg blank in any suitable manner, we prefer to effect the con-` nection as follows: i

The welt blank 4l is knitted upon any suitable well known knitting machine. Prior to the turning of the welt, the corresponding portion of the leg fabric blank B adjacent the edge 8 thereof is topped on the knitting needles N2 so that a short section 6a of said leg fabric blank projects from the inner side of the needles, the remaining portion of the leg fabric blank being allowed to drop off one side of the welt blank, as represented in Figure l0 of the drawings.

The welt blank is then turned, as is customary, and a course of knitted loops dla is formed to interknit the walls of the welt blank with the corresponding portions of the leg fabric blank therebetween; the short section 6a of the leg fabric blank is subsequently brought over the needles to disengage the same and a few courses knitted to provide a welt extension Mb substantially equal in size to the short section 6a of the leg fabric blank. The welt blank is then removed 01T the machine and, as shown in Figure 14, the welt extension Mb and short section 6a of leg fabric blank sewed together, preferably by means of a triple needle stitching machine, as illustrated at 54. The welt blank is finally turned inside out, as shown in Figure 15, forming a hem 55 enclosing the interknit and seamed connection, after which the stocking is completed, as hereinbefore described.

It is also to be understood that the welt may be attached to the leg in the same manner as done at the heel and toe, by forming the welt with the necessary extension.

In concluding, we wish it to be understood that other modifications in the mode of practicing and constructing the invention may be made and, therefore, any modifications coming Within the scope of the subjoined claims are to be considered within the spirit of the invention.

What we claim is:

l. The method of knitting a full-fashioned foot fabric blank comprising knitting heel fabrics with a double ply welt-like extension projecting therefrom, transferring said heel fabrics to knit thereonto sole fabrics extending in a direction at substantially right angles to that of said Weld-like extension, and knitting a toe fabric as a continuation of the sole fabrics with a double ply welt extension projecting between the sole fabrics.

2. The method of knitting a full-fashioned foot fabric blank adapted to be connected to a cut open-work fabric leg blank comprising knitting heel fabrics with a double ply welt-like extension projecting therefrom for connection to the corresponding portion of the leg fabric, transferring said heel fabrics to knit thereonto sole fabrics extending in a direction at substantially right angles to that of said welt extension and knitting a tce fabric as a continuation of said sole fabrics with a double ply welt extension projecting between the sole fabrics for interconnection to the corresponding portion of the leg fabric.

3. The method of uniting a stocking leg fabric section with the fabric of another part of a stocking having a double ply welt-like extension provided with a reentrant portion, comprising: engaging the corresponding'portion of said leg fabric section within the reentrant portion, and securing the engaged fabric portions together.

4. The method of uniting a stocking leg fabric section with the fabric of another part of a stocking having a double ply welt-like extension provided with a reentrant portion, comprising: engaging the corresponding portion of said leg fabric section within the reentrant portion, and stitching the latter with said leg fabric portion.

5. The method of uniting a stocking leg fabric section having depending tabs with the fabric of another part of a stocking having a double ply welt-like extension provided with a reentrant portion, comprising: engaging said depending tabs within said reentrant portion, and securing together the engaged tabs and reentrant portion.

6. The method of uniting a stocking leg fabric.

section having depending tabs with the fabric of another part of a stocking having a double ply welt-like extension provided with a reentrant portion, comprising: engaging said depending tabs within said reentrant portion, and stitching the latter with said tabs therebetween.

7. The method of making a stocking of the character described comprising: knitting heel fabrics with a double ply welt-like extension projecting therefrom; transferring said heel fabrics to knit thereonto sole fabrics extending in a direction at substantially right angles to that of said welt-like extension; knitting a toe fabric as a continuation of the sole fabrics with a double ply welt extension projecting between the sole fabrics; cutting a combination leg and instep blank out of open Work mesh-like material; folding said double ply Welt-like extensions to form a reentrant portion; and securing the corresponding portions of said blank to said extensions within the reentrant portions thereof.

8. The method of making a stocking of the character described comprising: knitting heel fabrics with a double ply welt-like extension pro- Vjecting therefrom; transferring said heel fabrics to knit thereonto sole fabrics extending in a direction at substantially right angles to that of said Welt-like extension; knitting a toe fabric as a continuation of the sole fabrics with a double ply welt extension projecting between the sole fabrics; cutting a combination leg and instep blank out of open work mesh-like material; folding said double ply welt-like extensions to form a reentrant portion; inserting into said reentrant portion the corresponding portion of said blank; and stitching said folded Welt-like extensions with the portion of the blank therebetween.

9. The method of making a stocking of the character described comprising: knitting heel fabrics with a double ply welt-like extension projecting therefrom; forming a picot course in each ply; transferring said heel fabrics to knit thereonto sole fabrics extending in a direction at substantially right angles to that of said welt-like extensions; knitting a toe fabric as a continuation of the sole fabrics with a double ply Welt extension projecting between said sole fabrics; forming a picot course in each ply of said latter extension; folding said double ply welt-like extensions along the picot courses thereof to form a reentrant portion with outer picot edges; and securing the corresponding portions of said blank to said extensions within the reentrant portions thereof.

JOSEPH L. BEERS.

HANS J. STRAUSSBERGER. 

